🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.